D-link Dwl-121 Driver For Mac

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1. D-link Dwl-121 Driver For Mac Pro
2. D-link Dwl-121 Driver For Mac Free

Let's say you have an 'old' Mac you want to wirelessly connect to your AirPort network. In my case, it's an eMac. Like me, you probably don't want to buy an expensive AirPort Extreme card. It's worse if you have an old G3 CRT iMac: the already-expensive card needs an exepensive adapter! So you look on the internet for a cheap USB WiFi dongle solution, like many of your PC friends own.

They don't make any of these for Macs? D-Link made one two years ago, but its new version (the DWL-G122) doesn't support OS X any more.

So I came across here, which made me purchase it, because the hint (and replies) stated that 'rev B1' of this dongle used a chipset that was Mac-compatible. And that the maker had an OS X driver available on their site. But I quickly was disappointed: I could only use it when I had no password assigned to my wireless network! It just wouldn't work when my WEP encryption was enabled. After much research, and the help of others in the Ralink forums, I found a solution. Put simply (for you quick-minded network genies), you need to enable WPA Personal encyption (instead of WEP, which seems to be totally broken with this version of the driver) and use a 13-character password.

For other, less-exeperienced users, I have written a very detailed walkthrough, which is a combination of the old hint, personal experience, info found on Apple's help pages, and elsewhere on the internet. First, I assume you are on a Mac running OS X 10.4 (it may also work under 10.3, because Ralink provides drivers for Panther, too), and that you are within range of a wireless network (in my case, an AirPort Extreme Base Station) and not connected via Ethernet. You also must not have an AirPort card in this Mac, as having two WiFi devices that near may damage one or both. I know, why would you want to connect a USB WiFi dongle when you have AirPort hardware? It doesn't make sense, but some folks like to try stuff just for fun!

Second, and this is the 'tricky' thing (well, for me it was anyway), you must set your AirPort Extreme Base Station to use WPA Personal encyption. Because WEP encryption seems to be simply non-working with this version of the Ralink driver. So unless you want to use an unprotected wireless network (which is totally unsafe), you must use WPA. Note: I did not find any successful reports of WEP working with my kind of config, hence my self-made conclusion and recommendation to switch to WPA (thanks to 'Ryhs' in the Ralink forums). Luckily, changing your encryption to WPA is easy. Just go in your AirPort Admin Utility (with a Mac that can connect to the Base station, of course), and under the AirPort tab, click on Change Wireless Security., then choose WPA2 Personal.

Enter a password that is preferably 13 characters long. Why 13 characters? In Apple's AirPort help, they say this length enhances compatibility with non-Apple computers, and I suspect that, when you use a WiFi dongle, the AirPort Base Station has problems recognizing that a true Mac is trying to connect to it! For the Encryption Type, I chose WPA and WPA2.

Of course, if you are using a closed network, you must enter your dongle's MAC address (see label on the dongle, look for 'MAC ID') under the Access Control tab, like you would do for any computer you want to give permission to access your wireless network. Click Update and let your Base Station reboot.

The Mac you just used to update these settings won't be able to reconnect - unless you already had a 13-letter password! You will need to go in your AirPort menulet (in your menu bar, where the clock, etc. Is) and connect to it, entering your newly-created password. If this works (check if Internet is live), you did everything right so far.

Now you're ready to go back to your unwired computer that wants to connect wirelessly. Reminder: do not connect the dongle yet. Other reminder: you absolutely must have the D-Link DWL-G122 USB WiFi Dongle rev. This 'rev B1' thing is crucial, as it is this version of the dongle that uses the Ralink 2500 chipset, which Ralink has drivers for, but not D-Link (if D-Link did, this hint wouldn't exist).

Here we go:. Download the Ralink driver from their. Choose one that matches your OS X version. I picked the latest one, for OS X 10.4.X, dated 2005/11/29 and numbered 'Drv1.2.0.0' (it's at the bottom of the page, under 'Macintosh / 11g-RT2500'). Install the driver, and restart the computer when prompted.

Do not connect the dongle yet!. When fully rebooted, connect the dongle.

WirelessUtilityUSB app should come up (it has a generic icon). Don't touch it yet. Go into System Preferences  Network. You should get a notice telling you that a new network interface was found. Click Apply Now to acknowledge it, and something like 'Ethernet Adpater (en1)' should appear where you probably have 'Internal Modem' and 'Built-in Ethernet' already listed. Click this new interface and configure it to connect to your wireless network.

For example, for my setup, it is easy: under the TCP/IP tab, I choose Configure IPv4 Manually, then I enter the IP address I had when I was Ethernet-wired, fill in the Subnet Mask with the usual 255.255.255.0, type in my AirPort Base Station's IP address in the Router field, and my ISP's DNS Servers' addresses, as usual, then click Apply Now. Switch back (via the Show menu) to Network Status.

You should see a green light next to 'Ethernet Adpater (en1),' meaning the device is active. And meaning you did great so far!. Go back to the WirelessUtilityUSB app. Note: Your dongle lights must be flashing by now. It may take a few seconds, but your wireless network (and all others within range) should appear under the Site Survey tab.

In the SSID column, you should see its name, or if you have a 'closed network' (a.k.a. 'Hidden SSID' or, in other words, if the wireless network you want to connect to does not broadcast its name), you will only see its MAC address in the BSSID column. Click Connect at the bottom of the window. If you have a closed network, you will be prompted to enter the exact network name.

If not, you will be immediately brought to the Authentication window. Authentication window: For Authentication Type, choose WPA-PSK. For Encryption Type, choose TKIP. In the WPA Pre-Shared Key field, enter your 13-character password. After a short moment (for me, it takes about 15-20 seconds), a weird green icon should appear in the unnamed column next to the SSID column, meaning you're connected to the Base Station!

A 'Connected' status message should also appear at the bottom. WirelessUtilityUSB must remain open all the time, and, assuming all your Network settings in System Preferences are correct, you should be able to surf the internet wirelessly. Don't be surprised: this thing is slower that an AirPort card, and I find it slower to show a page for the first time in the session everytime I open Safari. Maybe it's just me.

Another thing: every time you put the computer to sleep or reboot, you'll probably have to unplug-deplug the dongle to 'wake it up' (driver problem again). Then you must repeat steps seven to eleven to reconnect. I know, WirelessUtilityUSB app provides the Profiles feature (which, I guess, lets you save settings for each network you want to connect to, and for simple, quick reconnection), but I couldn't get it to work.

Feels like a flakey driver, but it does the job for me. Thomas Walter came up with a solution for the reboot problem, which I have yet to test.

You can (a dummy driver which simulates pulling and replacing the dongle). If you find it useful, please donate;-) I hope this long hint helped you! Please comment or email me (via the author link at the top of the hint) if you have questions. For those of us with older Macs that only have airport 80211b cards inside there is another way to get to 802.11g speeds that requires no drivers or compromises in security.

Use an Ethernet bridge device. This basically brings an Ethernet port to you wirelessly. You will have to use have an Ethernet port on your Mac but unless your Mac is really old you should have that.

Since you configure the device via a web browser and it uses your Ethernet port you need no extra drivers, just configure your Ethernet port and you are good to go. They are more expensive than USB adapters but starting at around 70 bucks that are not that badly priced. Some like the buffalo have several Ethernet ports so a single bridge can connect several computers, printers, whatever has a port and is within reach of an Ethernet cable from the bridge. Thanks for reviving the old DWL-G122 thread from a year ago and for the excellent summary! There are testimonials to the DWL-G122 at Amazon and numerous dongles for sale on ebay and a real need to sort out what works and what doesn't. Some followup comments and questions: 1. One reason why you might be interested in a USB wireless antenna even if you've got a modern Mac with builtin wireless is that the reception on the Airport cards (at least in a titanium PowerBook like mine) is notoriously weak.

There are lots of times when I get little or no reception and my pals with Dell laptops are doing great. I also want a cheap USB wireless device so I can play with gizmos like the famous. Thanks for the warning that two antennas in use simultaneously can damage each other.

But there's no problem as long as you turn off your built-in antenna before plugging in the USB one, right? Presumably you could avoid the problem by putting the USB antenna at the end of a cable, correct? How long would be far enough? And doesn't this problem also apply if people on two different laptops are working in close quarters?

So the Ralink driver trick only works with the B1 version of the G122. What if you can locate an older A1 or A2 version?

Will they still work on Mac OS X 10.4? There seem to be plenty of them on ebay, although a lot of the sellers don't say and probably don't know which version they've got. (The ones who do so are trying to cater to TiVo users, who also have dependencies on the G122 version.) 4. Finally, are there any.other. USB wireless antennas which can be scrounged up cheap for use on a Mac? Don't answer that - I'll start another thread. Thanks again!

I've been having a problem with my DWL-G122. Thanks to this amazing Thread, I, who did not feel that hunting down and buying an Airport card for my titanium Powerbook G4 now running 10.4 was worth it, bought this wonderful little device, set it up, downloading the MAC software, and got the thing working. It worked really well for about a month and then suddenly two days ago for no apprent reason stopped working.

It still opens up the USBWireless program all by itself when I plug it in and automatically claims to connect to my network, showing the little green icon of the shaking hands and claiming to have good signal and all of that BUT when I open a browser, I get nothing. I've tried everything I can think of. I've tried restarting the computer, using different browers, using my neighbor's unsecure network, manually resetting my IP address, looking specifically for my router (which it can't even find). I just don't understand why it would have stopped working all of a sudden when it was working just fine before. Guys, I understand security for your networks, and broadband speeds. But if you 'RTFM', it would be easier to just use 'Access Control' on Airport Express or other routers that use that name, or 'MAC-Address' under security?

And you can also just stop broadcasting your SSID along with MAC access control to safegaurd your network. I have never had a break in using this type of security. And your network should work better, not having to encrypt packets. The router just ignores other client card it does not know. (apartment living and college towns suck.) And 'yes' you can spoof MAC addresses, but you would need to know the list of MAC first, and WEP can be cracked; I did it to all my neighbors, so I could get their attention to change their channels to keep the noise down.

Based on the old DWL-G122 thread I purchased a combo pack (with router) and with the rebate got a faily decent deal. Well, that is, if I can get it to work. I uninstalled the old DWL-122 which has worked great and then followed the instructions for the G model and nada.no desktop icon.nothing in the network control panel.no lights on the device itself. I tried it twice and gave up. I downloaded the newest driver since I have osx4.5. So, now I have uninstalled its' driver and reinstalled the old DWL-122.

Any suggestion? Hi, My thanks as well for a great write-up on this. I have a 333 MHz iMac from 1999 (tray-loading) that can't take a wireless card, so I wanted something like this to get it on my wireless network (D-Link DI-624 router).

I almost went with the DWL-G122 and your hints but it looked a little too iffy for the non-technical users who would be using the iMac. I saw other comments about the Netgear WGE111 Wireless Game Adapter which.does. in fact do WPA (some reports were unclear) and decided to try it out. It was hard to actually find a store that would get one in with a refund-if-fails guarantee, but I did, and it works perfectly as advertised! I hope this helps anyone else looking for a fallback plan. Cheers, -Dick.

Trying to find a cheap wireless solution for my old iMac DV, I picked up a DWL-G122 ver. After reading all of the information above, I first tried installing the Railink drivers and they worked just fine, but they were a bit clunky to work with. I then uninstalled them and installed the ones on the driver CD.

They work perfectly. The installer adds a new preference pane and it also adds a nice signal strength gauge by the clock. The dongle will not start up initially until you set your network up in the preference pane. Use a static IP address; When your Mac starts up, the network initialization tries to negotiate a dynamic address before the dongle starts up and you get a random address. Using a static address fixes this. Also, for some reason, the driver(?) will sometimes take up to a minute to load and start the dongle on system startup.

D-link Dwl-121 Driver For Mac Pro

I'm running it on an iMac DV and OS 10.3.9. My iBook is a G3 (336 MHz), now updated to OS X 10.3.9 (Panther) with 320 MB total RAM. The guy I was talking to at the computer shop said he has solved the problem of going wireless on an older Mac without a (costly) airport card.His solution is to use the Asus WL330G wireless accesspoint. He connects it to the laptop's Ethernet port via a supplied cable that makes the Mac think it is connected to a LAN. He then fired up his internet browser and typed in the URL of the WL330G (supplied by the device's documentation), and from which he could make the settings on the WL330G to connect to the area's hot spot. He says the beauty of the setup is there's no software nor driver to install and is compatible with any computer with an Ethernet port. What do you guys think?

I'm sorely tempted to go out and buy one but I'd like feedback on this thing first. Some Mac guy told me that this Asus device is not Mac-friendly as far as the settings are concerned. BTW, I found a brand new D-Link DWL-G122 but it's a rev. C1, not a B1. I'd rather not buy it yet, as I'd like you guys to say if it'll work for me or not. For one, my system administrator may not probably want to change the password on the company machines just to fulfill the requirement for a 13-character password.

Just in case he does cooperate, which option do you think is the better choice, if indeed the C1 version is okay for my system? I guess the problem doesn't come from the dongle itself, but rather from a conflict with certain configurations.

I own an iBook G3 900 and this DWL-G122 rev B1 dongle. Funny enough, the driver worked perfectly for me until I had to connect to a WPA-secured network. I had a delay each time I connected to a server or tried to access a webpage, and that was a major PITA while surfing the web, so I configured my Wifi station (provided by my ISP, not an Apple Base Station) to WEP instead, even if it's said to be less secure. So far, it works fine, the 'Profiles' manager in WirelessUtility.app has no problem at all (I have 3 different networks I connect to regularly), but I did experience some kernel crashes when plugging/unplugging the dongle, or back from sleep.

If only RALink would release a software that's not as out of place as this WirelessUtility, though. I'd really like a menu bar like the Airport one. But my laptop is nearly 3 years old and still works like a charm, so I guess I can't complain:).

Has anyone else had problems with dropped connections? I'm working with an iBook, OSX 10.4.x, and Ralink driver 1.1.2.0. Power saving on the computer is off. The whole setup worked fine for a few weeks, now it unexpectedly drops the connection after a minute or two. The only way to reconnect is to stop the radio, unplug it, plug it into the other USB port, then restart the radio.

And it disconnects again after a minute or two. On the other end, I have a Belkin router model F5D7230-4, encryption disabled, and MAC filtering on. Can anyone shed a little light on this? Thanks, Beth. I also bought the d-link dongle (ver b1/firmware 2.2) and it works great. It did not come with any mac drivers on the install disk, but it worked well with the downloaded raitek 'drivers.'

I realize this is probably old hat info for most, but OSX does NOT recognize the dongle. You must use the 'Raitek Wireless Utility' program to utilize the dongle, and connect to access points, and it is at least a magnitude better then my iBook G4's built-in Airport Extreme. Since there is no Intel OSx version, the dongle's future is problematic. I only paid ($15 after a mail-in $25 rebate.), so it's not a big issue. Hi, I purchased the DWL-G122 usb adapter along with a router in a 'wireless starter kit.' The router works great - my roommates have no problems getting online.

However - i received hardware version D1 of the DWL-G122. I followed the instructions about downloading drivers from Ralink, but they do not work.

When I called DLink customer support, all they would do was refer me to a company called macwireless.com that sells a USB adapter for $89. (That's a little pricey for me.) Any tips for the D1 version? I may just have to return it and purchase something else. I have a DWL-G122 working (tested actually) on my eMac, running Tiger 10.4.7, with drivers supplied by D-Link. Although I didn´t get to use WAP, WEP and other security checks, the link capacity worked flawlessly. I see though, that people have been quoting the rev.

Bx firmware model. I actually looked for that one, but didn't find it, having read the older posting about using Railink drivers. After several emails with local suppliers, I gave up looking and actually went to a shop to buy one. To my suprise. There was a Mac OS Logo on the box!!!

Mine displays firmware version C1!? (I must admit I live in South America, and we do get odd models down here). Just in case, one of the suppliers assured me that it sports a Railink chip, so these might work for other revisions too. If someone would like to try the drivers that I got with my model, just post a request.

Hey everyone. I've got a 1.25 gHz Mac Mini (non Intel) with a gig of RAM. That said, I bought a DWL-G122 yesterday and today, I'm up and running. I followed the steps above exactly.then downloaded and installed the kernel extension for not having to re-plug the unit (link at the end of the article).

D-link Dwl-121 Driver For Mac Free

Once that was done, only then did I choose Add Profile on the Site Survey section of the Ralink software. Now, when I reboot or return from sleep, my connection automatically fires up. Hope that helps someone out there! Hey everyone I just bought two of the add logix usb wireless adapter and it setup on my old 400 mhz crt g3 imac in minutes with no problems. It came with mac drivers for panther and tiger. It's called the ADDLOGIX USB 2.0 WIRELESS (IEEE 802.11B/G) ADAPTER, and It was $32.99 from clubmac.com. Pretty good deal I think.

I hope this is relavent.here is a link - I treath others the way I would like to be treated. With respect. After my PowerBook's internal antenna and PC card bay both stopped working, I got a DWL-G122 to get online.

Anything to keep this PowerBook alive! Unfortunately, I find the USBWirelessUtility interface to be absolutely horrendous. Clicks don't always register, the icons remind me of Windows 3.1, tabbing through textfields doesn't work, the list goes on. I also couldn't help but notice once when USBWirelessUtility launched and froze everything when I was at the OS X login window. I didn't know anything could get past the login window. All that aside, it was cheap and it's given my PowerBook a slightly longer lifespan so I'm willing to bear with many of USBWirelessUtility's shortcomings. The icon had to go, however, and since the app needs to be running all the time for it to work (and is therefore always on my dock), I used a photo from D-Link's marketing materials to make a better application icon.

Here it is in case anyone else would like it: (zip, 21.8k).